Kent of Inglewood's Top 5 Straight Razors of All Time
The straight razor. Not as clumsy or random as an electric razor. An elegant tool, for a more civilized age. Once, the only way to get a shave, the practice needed from a barber was so developed that very often the town surgeon was the same man - who else knew how to wield a blade with such skill? Unfortunately, this worthy tool has fallen in popularity in recent decades. Since the introduction of the double-edge safety razor, which democratized shaving and made blade maintenance a less essential skill, the straight razor has become a rarefied tool, shrouded in legend and mystique.
In the movies, a straight razor can convey manliness, refinement and danger. Moneypenny’s suggestive shaving of Her Majesty’s most famous secret agent in Skyfall is a favourite that comes to mind. This is all not to mention the straight razor as the weapon of choice for notorious demon barber Sweeney Todd.
Because of this imagery, the straight razor is enjoying a modern revival. After hitting a production low in 2006, Dovo has increased its output four-fold since 2012’s Skyfall. As society becomes more conscious about waste and concern for the environment, alternatives to disposable plastics are actively sought out. Even in lean times, the relative expense of a straight razor is offset by substantial long-term savings.
As a service to you, our dear customer, who may be new to the straight razor, I have crafted a list of some of my favourite straight razors to give you an idea of where to start.
The Dovo Bergischer Lowe
One of my favourite straight razors is the Bergischer Lowe, and is it ever a gorgeous blade! The 5/8” height is the most common blade size, and it is comfortable for both a first-time user, and a seasoned wet shaver. Its full hollow grind (which is to say, extremely thin) produces an edge that surprises with how gently it cuts the hair on even the coarsest of beards. The Bergischer Lowe is also an object of nearly unmatched beauty: the naturally unique horn scales give each razor its own character, highlighted by a stylized spine that has been plated in 14-karat gold.
Thiers-Issard - Spartacus
How cool is it to shave with a blade titled "Spartacus"? Don't be intimidated: it's taller than the previous two razors, coming in at 7/8”, and is fittingly held by scales of cherry-red stamina wood. The taller blade lends it more momentum, allowing it to glide through your beard with unprecedented smoothness. When I first grabbed this razor I was mediocre at straight razor sharpening, but its sharpness and weight immediately upgraded my shaving technique! Their handmade razors are second to none, and when you use it, you are shaving with the weight of their 135 year history.
Wacker Barbiers Bride
Wacker is a four-generation family run business that proudly carries German blade smithing tradition without compromise. The master razor smith has been trained for decades, using grinding technology that has not been changed in 80 years due to its incredible success and quality. Each step of razor-crafting is carried out by hand, the same hands that have mastered those tasks with decades of practice from a young age. By refusing to compromise, Wacker crafts some of the best razors in Germany, and the world in general.
This razor's name is no coincidence, it is truly reminiscent of the style of razor used by barbers of days gone by. The thick, heavy spine gives it a confident weight when shaving, without feeling under control. The squared-off point allows for the precise detailing needed around the sideburns, beard, or nostrils. This razor is designed to make you feel like a pro, regardless of your experience level.
Takami Kamisori
As a young blacksmith working on his own, Amano-san began steel forging and crafting Kamisori (Japanese straight razors) around the time that Kent of Inglewood opened in 2014. In 2015 he began mailing us prototypes to shave with, and report back our results. Right from the beginning his edges were fantastic, and with a little bit of feedback his blades quickly became the comfortable, balanced blade that you see today. He makes a non-traditional ambidextrous razor all from White Carbon Steel, a steel known for its hardness and edge retention. Typically Japanese razors are right-handed, but we feel this western-style razor is a true masterpiece.
Kamisori is Japanese for razor, and is a style of straight razor unto itself. It is a thoroughly Japanese style of straight razor, in its history, its simple-but-elegant design, and its hand-forged craftsmanship. Though the style is hundreds of years old, famous blacksmith Iwasaki-san revived it and pursued making the perfect razor. Since then, many blacksmith have continued this work as the style gains popularity, including Amano-san.
Feather Artist Club Disposable Straight Razor
Sure, this may not be a traditional straight razor, but it's one of the sharpest, most precise and user-friendly blades I've ever shaved with! Designed for professionals, the disposable blades are sharpened to an incredible edge and come in 4 level of agressiveness: Super, Regular, Mild, and guarded for beginners or difficult skin. Given that they're made with barbers in mind they're designed very ergonimcally, and can easily be taken apart and sanitized. While the blades are meant for single-use, I find I get 3 good shaves per blade!
The first time I used this razor, it was like my beard wasn't even there. It was as smooth as using a squeegee on glass, no joke. That said, these blades are very thin and sharp, so take your time and be careful; overconfidence with this razor will lead to some nasty cuts and razor-burn. This razor truly commands your respect, and with a little patience and practice it'll give you the best shave of your life.
While these are some of the best razors that we have to offer, a straight razor is a very personal thing and we have a wide selection to choose from. You can check out more here.
If you’d like to do some more learning, check out our in-depth exploration on different point styles or get in touch with us directly, we are happy to answer any questions you may have.
