How to Buy a Straight Razor: German v.s. French v.s. Japanese

With the overwhelming popularity of straight razors in the modern day, so many new and old manufacturers are popping up, and it can be difficult to make a decision on which one to buy your blade from.

At Kent of Inglewood we only sell straight razor brands that we truly believe in. We have tested each line that we carry by shaving our own faces, and whether it be a 180-year-old brand from Germany or a brand-new maker, we know that all of our partners offer a fantastic product. We sell no mystery steels, no movie replicas, no soft imitations of straight razors that will dull quickly. We only sell the genuine article so you can’t make a bad choice.

With that said, let’s help you narrow it down a little better.

German Razors

The Germans have long been known for their excellent steel. The mark “Solingen” taken from the name of the German steel town has been a recognizable mark for decades, if not centuries. In the modern day, very little steel is made in Germany, but the old German makers continue their craftsmanship with high-quality Swedish steel. 

Swedish steel is a great starting point for straight razors. It is workable, easy to sharpen and repair, but it keeps an edge better than softer steels and will therefore shave you for months without needing to see a whetstone. We carry two lines of German razors made with Swedish steel, Dovo and Boker, and while Swedish steel may not keep its edge as long as steel from Japan, it offers a very competitive price point. German razors also tend to be very consistent in their construction and finish.

French Razors

After the invention of the current straight razor design several centuries ago in Sheffield, England, French manufacturers picked up on the trend and began their own workshops emulating what the English were doing. In 1884, Pierre Thiers started his own company known as Thiers Issard in the french steel town of Thiers. Pierre was fanatical about making straight razors and passed the company on to his descendants. To this day Thiers Issard is one of the best razor manufacturers on earth and quite possibly the only one left in France.

While French steel was originally used, Thiers Issard now buys an incredible proprietary steel blend from Japan known as Carbonsong 135 or C135. They choose this steel for its extreme 64 HRC hardness, which should be capable of holding an edge twice as long as most Swedish steels but is a little more stubborn when honing and stropping. Thiers Issard president Gilles Reynwaeter proudly boasts that Thiers Issard takes extra steps in the grinding, polishing and finishing of their razors, creating a more “artisan-made” product than other brands.

Hopefully, now that you are armed with this information, your choice on which razor is right for you will be easier. Ultimately, I would sum it up like so: German razors tend to be more consistent in their construction and a bit lighter weight, whereas French razors usually stay sharp longer and have a bit more heft .It can be tough to choose with so many inspiring options, so just remember - it’s okay to have a collection. I have several straights at home, and I’m always searching for my next straight razor!

Japanese Razors

As in many countries, folks in Japan have been shaving for a long time. For as long as there has been steel used to make swords, spears and tools, there have been straight razors in some form or another. Over many centuries, the Japanese razor eventually took the form that we have today: the Kamisori.

Kamisori - translating literally to 'razor'- is the Japanese equivalent of the folding straight razor that most folks in the west are familiar with. While they are similar in principle, those who have shaved with both know that they are worlds apart. Unlike nearly all western-style razors, kamisori are traditionally forged by a blacksmith. Forging gives the steel certain benefits that are hard to achieve otherwise, giving it phenomenal edge retention and the ability to get sharper than most blades in existence.

Traditional Kamisori bear many traits from their roots in traditional Japanese knife making. Most notably, the blades are single-beveled, meaning that one side is sharpened to a typical angle, and the other side is flat, even slightly concave. This means that unlike Western style straight razors, slightly different angles are required when shaving with different sides of the blade. The Kamisori design makes them incredibly ergonomic and offers a more natural feel, like working with a kitchen knife or a pen. The Japanese forging gives them superior edge retention to their European counterparts, and the shorter blades make them popular among many folks, especially those who simply wish to trim their beards.

For even more options check out our entire Straight razor collection here!